Denali

You are most well known as a number—20,310 feet. You are alone at the top of North America. You are a record holder: at 18,000 feet from base to peak, you are the tallest mountain in the world. You have always been Denali. You were named by the Athabaskan people who have always honored you as The Great One. Mt. McKinley was just a foolish attempt by white men to own you. You can never be owned by anyone.

Why is it that your existence is a siren’s call to so many to stand on your summit? What is it about mountains that speaks to these people and will not let them go until they have fought their way to the peak? This climbing season is coming to a close, with the long hours of daylight and warmer temperatures making the snow too soft and the risk of avalanches too great. Of the 974 climbers who registered to climb you, 52% have summited. I think that makes you a kind and welcoming mountain, but I am not deceived by your willingness to share your beauty. You give but you also take. You have taken the lives of 3 climbers this season. They knew, they understood that you can be dark and violent and deadly. Still they went because they could not turn away from your call and your promise to let them come and try to reach your summit.

I don’t climb mountains (at least not mountains requiring crampons, an ice axe, and long ropes). And yet, I felt you call to me too. I did not know what to expect, only that I would not go to Alaska without seeing you. I was so lucky. I was told that only 30% of visitors to your park get to see you emerge from the clouds. I saw you every day. I saw you as we drove north from Anchorage. I saw you from within the park. I saw you and kissed your peaks from a small plane. I saw you from the train when it was finally time to say goodbye.

It was from the windows of a small plane that I felt you open your heart to me. Although I did not feel you beneath my feet, I chose to feel you by filling my eyes with your presence. You rose above the clouds with fierce edges. I saw the climbers, those tiny dots along a barely visible trail as they marched along your open heart and prayed for your continuing willingness to give and not take. I will never forget the feeling of your totality and power. You are The Great One and you made all 5 feet of me feel even smaller. I wish everyone could have that experience. Maybe then they would be more humble human beings and not take the Earth for granted.

*As I write this, Denali National Park is closed due to wildfires.